If you are an owner of a stock late model Harley you may have noticed that it does not make all that much power for all that displacement. There are many reasons for that fact, many of which you can't change. Luckily there are a couple things you can do to get some some significant increases in HP without laying out much cash.

Fundamentally, what we want to do is get more air into the engine and allow more exhaust to get out. To allow more exhaust to escape the engine you'll need to punch the baffles out of your stock exhaust system, or get a set of better pipes. Your call. Step one for getting more air into the engine is to first get more air into carburator. That means buying a high-flow airfilter. The Screamin' Eagle brand is as good as they get, but most aftermarket companies also offer them. Step two is to tune up that CV carburator. That's what this page is about.

This step-by-step instruction comes to us from Mark "Tusk" Amos and Charlie "Old Hacker" Powers. Your humble webmaster has performed this very mod on his charished '96 Dyna Glide Convertible. It's easy and it work. The techniques described here were gleaned from:

The Big Twin High Performance Book by William Denish,
Crystal Publications, ISBN 0-9640115-0-6 (BUY THIS BOOK!),
the Harley Email Digest, and personal experience

As Tusk says at the end, there is nothing really new here, but I've yet to see it posted to a web site for general consumption, so here it is...

Parts needed:

27094-88 Main needle ('88 XLH part)
27116-88 Main jet (#165)
27170-89 Pilot or "Low speed" jet (#45)

Tools needed:

Drill
1/8" bit
1/16" (or approximate) bit
Hand tools for removing and disassembling carb
Good quality fine flat metal file (i.e. Nicholson)
400 or 600 grit emery paper

The mod works well for all types of Harleys, but the starting values of the needle and jets here are for the big twin. Sportsters will require slightly different jetting, but part numbers appear at the bottom so you should not have too much trouble adapting to your particular motor.

GETTING STARTED

Remove the carb per your service manual. You MIGHT get away with leaving the throttle cables OR the choke connected to the bike, but don't count on it. It would be much easier if you remove the carb completely and go to a work bench. I usually leave the choke cable hooked to the carb and disconnect the pull-handle end, taking the entire choke cable/carb assembly with me. Your call.

IDLE MIXTURE ADJUSTMENT

Before we *really* get started, you might as well remove the aluminum plug covering the idle mixture screw. Using about a 1/16" drill bit, turn the carb over and CAREFULLY drill a hole in the small plug just on the motor side of the float bowl. If the plug did not fall out when drilling, remove your drill bit and use the back side to pry it loose. Some carbs may require the CAREFUL insertion of a self-tapping sheet metal screw the get a good enough grip to pull the plug.

Underneath you will find a slotted screw. Turn this screw clockwise until GENTLY seated...jamming the screw down too tight will ruin both the carb and needle. Now back off about 2 full turns. This gives you an approximate starting point for tuning, and once we have it tuned you will need to secure the screw with a dab of silicone, but not yet. Don't forget! They don't sell those ANY of the idle mixture screw parts separately. Tuning details to follow in the IDLE MIXTURE ADJUSTMENT section.

SLIDE MODIFICATIONS

Remove the top of the carb (slide vacuum chamber cover) being careful to loosen the throttle linkage stop plate. There is a spring under the top cover so hold it with a finger until all screws are loose. Holding the carb upright remove the top and spring, then the slide/diaphragm assembly (all one piece). If you look into the top of the slide you can see some plastic stuff holding down the needle. Pour this stuff in your hand as you will be replacing the main needle. Before reassembling the slide you will need to modify it.

Looking at the bottom of the slide where the needle was hangin out, you will see a second hole off-center from the needle hole. This is the vacuum hole, and needs to be CAREFULLY drilled to 1/8". Be careful to make a clean straight hole and keep shavings away from the rest of the carb and blow them out of the slide. Remove any burring that may have occurred.

Now it is time for the critical part for a true craftsman. The front bottom edge of the slide needs to be chamfered or "radiused". This is the edge OPPOSITE the side the vacuum hole was on (the front). Use a fine flat metal file to CAREFULLY smooth this edge from the 90 degree to a "rounded" 45 degree. This smooths the airflow. DO NOT file too deep or you will cut through the wall of the slide creating a hole, thus ruining the slide. DO NOT file the flat parts which contact the carb body as this could cause improper operation. You may need to take some fine (400 or 600) emery paper and polish the chamfer a bit if the file has left grooves or roughness.

REPLACE JETS

With this done you can set the slide aside for now. Open up the float bowl CAREFULLY and replace the main and low speed jets. These are brass in aluminum and both are soft- use a light hand and the proper tool. Do not overtighten when reinstalling: good and tight is better than stripped and loose. Note: be sure to use jets numbered for the CV carb, and not for the older butterfly carbs, as the numbering system is different. Use the HD part numbers listed above to be sure.

Comments from Cheezie:

"One side note of observation I made recently about needles in a
CV carb... I noticed that the needles for the 1996 models has
changed... don't know if this will have any bearing on these mods
at all... might not hurt to check this out further... I did note
that the other parts associated with the needle (slide and spring
seat) didn't change... don't know if this has any relevance or not."

RE-ASSEMBLY

Replace the float bowl and the slide, and install the new needle and related hold-down hardware, then the spring and top. CAUTION: some diaphrams are a bit flimsy and are easy to get misaligned and pinched in the top edge. I used a VERY small dab Hylomar applied around the lip of the carb body to hold mine in place while I installed the top. The diaphram has the appearance of being "swollen" and seems to be too large to fit into the groove. The repeated up and down movement of the diaphram causes it to stretch and can make re-assembly tricky. In addition to Hylomar, try using the cap to position the diaphram. It will not only allow you to evenly push the diaphram into the groove but you can "wiggle" the top and feel when the diaphram is properly located. Later model CV's have a dowel in them at the cable guides...this can make matter's difficult at times.

A damaged diaphram will have symptoms of the motor being able to idle well
but not being able to take ANY throttle. If you think you may have a damaged
diaphram, check for any pinholes with a bright light behind the rubber,

pulling on the edges to stretch the diaphram a bit.If you find any, you

must replace the entire slide/diaphram assembly and start over on thedrilling and chamfering.

TESTING

Assuming everything went ok, you are now ready to reassemble everything and test her out. Be careful not to overtighten the choke cable mounting nut as the plastic will break fairly easily. Warm the bike up to full operating temperature. You may have a little trouble keeping her idling, but one thing to remember is you now have a carb which is not as leaned out as the factory setup, so DO NOT follow the owner's manual directions for cold starting. Here is the new procedure: Pull choke out either half or all the way depending on ambient temp (below 70 degrees? Pull all the way out) and if the bike has been run in the past 2 hours or so (if the motor is totally cool, pull out all the way, otherwise half or none if the motor is already warm). Start the bike, quickly adjusting choke to reduce fast idle to a reasonable level. No more than 30 seconds later, push the choke all the way in and use the throttle to keep the bike idling while warming up. Some use the throttle lock for this purpose.

If you follow the owner's manual you will certainly foul your plugs, so use your head.

Letting your bike idle for 15 minutes to warm up is not always desirable, and your bike should be running well enough for a CALM test run around the block. This will speed up the warmup time and also give you a little bit of a feel for the improvement of the mods. DO NOT blast off and ride wheelies down the street! Your Evo is as sensitive to the warmup time as you have always heard, so be gentle the first few miles. I would go around once to get the temp up then stop to tweak the idle and idle mixture. Word of advice: find a little screwdriver you can use to adjust this screw BEFORE the motor is hot, as fumbling about trying to use the wrong screwdriver will probably result in burned knuckles if you are not careful.

ADJUSTING IDLE MIXTURE

With motor hot and at idle, turn the screw inward (clockwise) SLOWLY until the motor starts to falter. If the motor will not idle on its own when you begin this procedure, bump up the idle set screw until it will. Throughout this procedure try to keep the RPMS at or below 1000. Now having turned the screw inward until the bike falters, back it out slowly, making a mental note of the position on the clock. Turn outwards until the motor begins to run smoothly, then adjust idle stop screw as necessary to bring RPMs down, but not TOO low. Evo oiling systems need better than 700 RPM to work properly. Blip the throttle a time or two and observe the results. If the motor responds with a gratifying blast without backfiring through the carb, you have your idle mixture right. If it backfires through the carb ("carb farts") you will want to back the idle mixture screw out another 1/4 turn. Do not go too far, as too rich an idle mixture will certainly cause you many
headaches and poor gas mileage.

Once you are happy with the setting, you might want to apply a small amount of RTV silicone to the idle screw hole to hold the screw in place. You could otherwise lose the screw after a while due to vibration, causing the bike to run poorly and not idle, and causing you to tear your hair out in frustration since you will not find the part listed as a replacable part (remember there was a plug over it?).

Cheezie's comment: That welsh plug is actually over it because the EPA
doesn't want you tampering with it at all...has nothing to do with the screw falling out. Did the screw fall out when you drilled out the welsh plug? I'll answer for ya....Nope. I haven't yet used any sillycone on that hole for the carbs I've modified...using sillycone is just a feel good thing for the owner.

FINE TUNING

The details of carb tweaking and plug reading is a very involved subject, so you may want to refer to a higher authority after this. Here is a very basic guide.

Go run your bike while it's hot. Run up the gears, giving hard throttle and messing with roll-on performance. If it is lacking in this area, as in spitting or hesitating, increase the size of your low speed jet a couple of notches and try again. If the bike blubbers and/or coughs black smoke from the exhaust, go down a size or two. Below you will find the part numbers as stolen from the digest.

The main jet is another story. You must be in fourth or fifth gear and
running fairly high RPM (3000+) then open the throttle all the way to the stop, noting the feel of the bike. Immediately let off about 1/8 turn and note the feel of the bike. If it seems to accelerate some when you let off the 1/8, your main jet is too rich. If it hesitates or the top speed is poor (i.e. less than 80 MPH) you are too lean. Adjust accordingly. Use your common sense and seat of the pants feel and you will get close enough to do plug reads. NOTE: You should not need to change the needle unless you feel confident it is really necessary.

Plug reading is as much an art as a science for us backyard wrenches, since high-dollar equipment is needed to REALLY do it up right, but for most street riders making sure your plugs are a nice tan color is good enough. Don't bother reading the plugs until you have done the fine tuning above, and then use new plugs (hopefully you started this whole thing with a new set also- and don't forget to check that gap!). Do some riding which exercises either low speed or main jetting and stop immediately and check the plugs for the most accurate reading. If your plugs are black you are too rich, which sucks your gas and performance but will not harm your motor. Too light or worse yet bone white you are too lean, and motor damage will soon follow if proper steps are not taken.

FINAL NOTES

Large changes to the low speed jet will probably require you to adjust the idle mixture again. Keep this in mind when choosing and applying the RTV. You should expect to end up with a richer setup if your bike is light and/or you are running exceptionally good flowing pipes (i.e. Thunderheader). There are so many variations here it is hard to predict, but the ranges listed here are for most normal applications. If you try these and your bike still runs like hell you may have some other problem (clogged fuel screen/filter, bad petcock, ignition trouble/electrical malfunction, timing wrong, fouled plugs, bad gas, etc. etc.) You may want to get a seasoned wrench involved if
you are in doubt.

Hope this helps you. And remember, after you flow your heads and add a good cam, you may need another carb like an S & S to realize the full performance potential, but the CV with these mods works very well on a stock or nearstock motor.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

Thanks to all the digesters who contributed to this and especially to the Old Hacker Charlie Powers for inspiring this work. There is really nothing new written here except it is in electronic form to be sent around the net. Don't ask me why yet another CV article was needed, but I thought it might as well be done.

ADDENDUM

Disclaimer: These mods are for off-road use only and are not approved by the EPA or DOT or Bill Clinton. Some people ride on the road with these mods, but I would not know who that would be Also, the authors nor their descendants nor their ancestors are responsible for any damages due to following these instructions. If you follow them correctly and do not screw up you will not have any trouble anyhow, but there it is.

Fuel Supply: The following mods apply no matter whether you apply the mods above to your CV or if you change the carb out to a better one. Suggested by The Old Hacker once again.

You may want to drill out the gas cap. Turn over the gas cap and look at the bottom. The plastic molding SHOULD have 4 spokes but some of the bad ones had 8 spokes...8 spoke gas caps need to be replaced with a 4 spoke gas cap then the mods can be made. The one with 4 spokes has four pads or flat spots about 1/8 inch in diameter spaced around the outside of the inner molding ring. Using a 1/16 inch bit or smaller, drill a hole in the center of each of these pads clean though to the airspace below. Do not get too enthusiastic and punch a dent or hole in the top of your gas cap. If you do it is a good time for one of those stick-on gee-gaws (Live to Ride...). The result will be better gas tank venting now that you are using more fuel and probably riding harder and faster. There is currently some controversy about this subject so please read the Denish book for more info.

Fuel petcock: Due to EPA regs the stock fuel petcock on late model Harleys has very restrictive fuel flow. There are several alternatives but Pingel is far and away the best on the market. Excellent flow and very high quality construction and feel. The Old Hacker sez it's better than sex, so he frequently will go to the garage when he every now and then and turn it on and off a few times just for the feel of it. This is no kidding, folks.

APPENDIX: Jet and needle part numbers

Jet Needle (mid-range) in decending order Rich->Lean
27175-90 N72R Rich
27176-90 (CA Only) |
27178-90 N72S |
27179-90 (CA Only) |
27184-92 N86F |
27186-92 N86E |
27280-92 (CA Only) Lean

27094-88 '88 1200 Sportster (Recommended needle)

Pilot Jet (low or slow speed)
27170-89 45 Rich
27171-89 42 |
27281-92 40 |
27117-88 35 Lean

Main Jet (high speed)
27185-90 185 Rich
27114-88 180 |
27090-89 175 |
27115-88 170 |
27116-88 165 |
27152-89 160 Lean

Attached you will find the complete installation Instructions for the S&S® VFI Cruise Control Adapter Kits
S&S Part #55-5024 and #55-5025. Theses instructions come in PDF format and can be viewed with Adobe Acrobat Viewer.  http://www.ronincycleparts.com/img/Cruise_Control_adapter_kit.pdf

101 Tech Tips

Over the course of the year, we were fortunate enough to travel across the country to various events where we had the privilege of meeting many of you, our readers. One of the subjects you’ve repeatedly asked for is a compilation of technical tips that will save time and trouble on everything, from how to maintain your bike to making quick roadside repairs if the need should arise. What we’ve put together here are 101 quick tech tips that may help save you a moment of frustration-and a fingernail or two.

Hopefully, as you read this article, you’ll remember a quick little tip you learned or developed that you can pass on to the rest of our readers. If you decide the rest of us can’t live without your tip, and you send us one or two, or however many, remember to include any drawings or photographs along with your name, address, and phone number in case there’s anything we need to follow-up on.

Duct tape is always handy to have with you when you’re out on the road. You never know when you may have to fix a busted satellite. But instead of carrying a big bulky roll of duct tape, tear off a length and wrap it carefully around the handle of a screwdriver. When the need arises, peel some duct tape off the screwdriver handle.

If you’re using a set of Screamin’ Eagle XR750-style valve springs (PN 18200-79R) that were manufactured and sold during the 1996 calendar year…watch ‘em! They may “not” have been properly heat-treated! If the springs appear brownish in color, they’re properly tempered. If they’re gray colored when new, they aren’t. These springs also come in the following kits: PN 18210-84B, 16459-96, 16460-96, 25633-86A, 25647-91, 25493-89A, and 25490-87A. If you suspect a problem, call your H-D dealer and refer them to factory P&A.

When stopped in traffic or at a signal, shift into Neutral and release the clutch lever. Holding the clutch in puts unneeded stress on the small throw-out bearing in the clutch release cover and could cause your hand to fatigue.

For about six months of early 1990 big-twin production, Harley installed clutch release ramps with a shallow 15-degree angle. If you have a ‘90 model and have difficulty finding Neutral, even when everything else is OK, check the ramps. The end of the three 15-degree ramps almost touch, whereas the proper 18-degree version has a space between the ramps as wide as your little finger. The good parts are PN 25452-87A (inner) and PN 25453-87 (outer). As long as you’re at it, check out your clutch adjusting screw. Yours may be two pieces, and you’ll want the one-piece version (PN 37090-84A) to complete the update.

To clear a fouled spark plug out on the road with your gloves still on, try pulling the spark plug wire off, holding it near the plug, and running the motor. The larger gap increases the voltage and just may burn the plug clean from whatever was fouling it. Don’t hold it so far away that the plug doesn’t fire, or you could damage your electronic ignition.

Non-weatherproof saddlebags can be “weatherproofed” by putting a trash can liner in first to keep contents dry.

Check your tire pressure every week. Low tire pressure will cause tires to wear quickly and unevenly, and contribute to making an ill-handling motorcycle, not to mention hurting your fuel mileage.

If you plan on working on your wheel assemblies, you can make a wheel-holding fixture out of a one-third size (19 gallon) oil drum and about 4 feet of old garden hose. Empty drums are usually available cheap or for free from oil distributors or the rear of car dealer’s service buildings (ask first). To make the fixture, remove the lid from the oil drum and clean it out. Then take the piece of garden hose and open it up by slitting it lengthwise. Slip the split garden hose over the rim of the oil drum, and trim the ends so that they meet squarely. You can use duct tape to hold the garden hose in place. We found that a strip of tape about every 6 inches around the opening worked just fine. Now when you want to work on a wheel, just set it over the top of the drum. The wheel won’t rock and roll while you work, and the garden hose will protect its finish.

When removing axles or pins, don’t hammer or force them; wiggle them free. Banging on them can mushroom the ends and ruin them, especially those with threaded ends.

When working on parts such as carburetors, metal baking sheets or pans make good work surfaces. They help keep all the loose parts in one place and are easy to clean afterward. Magnetic dishes are handy for holding small parts or screws, bolts and nuts on uneven surfaces.

Just finish installing some new exhaust pipes or mufflers on your bike and ready to fire it and hear the thunder? Wait, to keep your fingerprints from burning into the new shiny chrome, wipe the pipes and mufflers clean with a paper towel or shop towel and Windex. When new pipes get hot, the smallest amount of oil or grease will stain the chrome and be there forever.

Save the plastic caps from aerosol cans. They make great holders for nuts, bolts, and washers. We also put solvent in them and drop in small items for cleaning.

Washing your bike can often make it safer because it’s the perfect time to be looking for loose hardware, frayed wires, damaged hoses, frame cracks or other irregularities that might leave you stranded or worse.

When stopped at a signal with no one behind you, always keep the front or rear brake applied. This will keep the brake light on and help ensure that an approaching driver sees you, day or night.

Brake pads on new Harleys can squeal a bit while breaking in of galled metal on the pad. This is normal and usually goes away as miles accumulate. If you can’t wait that long for quieter stopping, try this: Pull the brake pads out of the caliper and file off any burrs on the edges of the metal backing plate, especially around the “V” notch on rear pads. Your local auto parts store can sell you a tube of compound made by Bendix that, when applied to the backs of the pads, can help stop the squeal. Reassemble with surgical cleanliness, and you can stop on a dime, without the whine.

Some steel-braided brake lines come with plastic coverings that prevent the lines from scratching expensive parts. But if you are custom-making your own lines or have purchased lines without this protective sleaving, use a piece of clear heat shrink tubing. Most heat shrink tubing is large enough to slip over the end fittings, and a quick blast from a hair dryer will make it nice and tight. You could even use colored shrink-wrap tubing to match your paint scheme.

If you don’t have the proper wrench for your spin-on oil filter, use a 11/42-inch-wide nylon or leather strap and a pair of vise-grips. Wrap the strap around the filter, and clamp the loose ends as close as you can to the filter with the vise-grips. Twist and presto!

When checking your fuel, never use a match or lighter to check the level in your tank. Eyebrows and eyelashes are extremely difficult to grow back, but much harder to explain the lack of.

When installing a washer and nut in a hard-to-reach area, first clean the parts with solvent, and then secure them to each other with a drop of super glue. Make sure they’re dry before you touch them or the only thing you’ll assemble is you to them.

Cut the bottom off an old oil container for a handy instant funnel. Old automotive-gear oil containers are even better.

Many readers recommend going to a donut shop before dropping your bike off at the local dealership for service. Yes, it’s bribery, but it seems to ensure that things get off on the right foot! Few mechanics can resist a good glazed or jelly-filled bribe.

If you have poor vision or find it difficult to locate the right wrench without digging through your entire toolbox first, consider color-coding your wrenches, sockets, and other assorted tools. For example, paint your 11/42-inch wrench and 11/42-inch socket red, paint your 71/48-inch wrench and 71/48-inch socket yellow, and so on. Colored vinyl tape is also good for this purpose.

If you have accessory leads or terminals on your bike, a trouble light is a simple and worthwhile accessory to include in your tool pack. Twelve-volt light setups are available at most auto part stores, or you can make your own using our July ‘97 Quick Tech (page 104) as a guide. The test light we made was for testing voltage and grounds, but as a trouble light, the little unit can be used to shed light on any late-night roadside problems.

This tech tip is for California riders. If you own a ‘93-or-later Harley-Davidson motorcycle that was originally sold in California and has the stock air cleaner housing on it, you may have problems riding your bike after a bump-start. If you do this, you’ll only be able to reach a maximum speed of about 40 mph. Your speed will be limited by a solenoid-operated butterfly valve on the bottom of the air cleaner that is designed to be closed when the motorcycle is not operating to prevent gas vapors from escaping the carburetor. The solenoid opens the valve when the starter button is pushed to start the motor, so that if you start the motor without using the starter, the butterfly will remain closed and the motor’s air intake will be restricted.

When replacing bearings, give them the hot and cold treatment. A hot towel on your wheel hub will make wheel bearings easier to remove, and freezing new bearings will make them easier to install. When using a punch to install a bearing, remember to tap only on the outer race’s edge and not on the inner race or you’ll ruin it.

If you play guitar or know someone who does, get a hold of some old guitar strings. Made from bronze, steel, or nickel, the strings are useful for cleaning spray can nozzles and carburetor jets.

To remove light rust from chrome, wad up a piece of aluminum foil and rub it across the rust.

When applying cleaners or finishes, shop towels tend to soak up liquids and can be difficult to use in tight areas. Try applying the liquid cleaners or polishes to the surface first, and then work them in while wearing a pair of rubber dishwashing gloves.

Motorcycle joints are just as important as human joints to a rider. Be sure to keep footpeg hinges, swingarm pivots, kickstand pivot bolts and lever pivot pins properly lubricated.

Use carpet remnants to create a work area for your bike. Choose a light-colored piece that is 2-3 feet larger than the footprint of your bike. The carpet will do a good job of catching any dropped small parts or fasteners, soak up oil spills, and provide cushioning for your feet and knees while you work.

For long and prosperous rear belt life, make a habit of cleaning the belt and pulley teeth with hot soapy water and a toothbrush. To reach the front transmission pulley, you may have to duct tape the toothbrush to a screwdriver blade.

To clean corrosion off your battery terminals, pour a little carbonated cola drink on them-things go better with Coke.

To protect that expensive paintjob on your tank while it is removed from your bike, use an old tire as a “tank” stand.

If you’re one of those impatient Harley owners who changes plugs while the engine is hot, try using a 6- to 8-inch piece of rubber gas hose slipped over the spark plug-once it’s been loosened with a wrench-to remove it from the hot engine.

If you’re adding electrical items to your bike, keep track of how much current they draw. The total draw from the ignition system-all lights and other accessories-should not exceed 80 percent of the total rated output of your model’s charging system. This allows a minimum of 20 percent of the output for battery charging.

If the shifter rattles on your FL, try sticking a pushrod cover spring (PN 17947-36) over the spacer behind the shifter levers.

When using chrome hardware on your bike, put a drop of antiseize or thread-locker on the bolt threads before screwing it in. These will act as a lubricant and prevent the threads from galling and ruining the hardware or the part.

As of October 15, 1996, you shouldn’t use car oil in your hog. That’s because oil companies began using the new API (American Petroleum Institute) SJ service rating. SJ-rated oil, among other things, has been formulated for water-cooled auto engines, to improve fuel economy and prevent damage to catalytic converters. The EPA has also slashed the allowable quantities of sacrificial additives, like zinc and magnesium, that roller-bearing V-twin engines desperately need for long-term health and reliability. Water-cooled engines generally operate at less than 200 degrees F, while Harley’s can pop up to 250 degrees or more, and average between 180-220. Put simply, the new oil formulations for cars may be inadequate for your Harley. In fact, H-D says if you’re stuck in the middle of nowhere and can’t find H-D oil, use diesel oil (CE, CF, CF-4, or CG-4 rated). We say if you’re one of those who thought oil was oil, now you know it’s not.

If you’ve installed adjustable pushrods in a motor that has hydraulic lifters, you need to be careful when adjusting them. As you adjust the pushrod, it lengthens, which causes the inner sleeve of the lifter to sink into the middle of the lifter body where it is designed to operate. The thing is that the lifter’s inner sleeve doesn’t sink as fast as you are adjusting the pushrod. It needs time to bleed down to its operating area. Prior to the lifter bleeding down, the pushrod holds its corresponding valve off its seat in the combustion chamber. If you’re using a high-lift camshaft and you rotate the crankshaft prior to the lifter bleeding down, you could have the problem of a valve hitting a piston, which could result in bending the valve. The rule of thumb is this: After you adjust the pushrods for a cylinder, let the motor sit for 15 minutes while the lifters bleed down before you rotate the crankshaft. You’ll know the lifter has bled down when you can spin that pushrod between your fingers.

Owners of ‘86-’92 Sportsters need to watch out for the positive battery cable chafing on the battery tray to the point where it can short out the system. You can prevent this by taking a 3-inch piece of fuel hose cut lengthwise, and sliding it over the battery cable where it comes close to the tray.

Stator plug won’t stay plugged on your early model big twin? You can buy a retainer like Harley’s (PN 45095-85), or take a razor blade to the plug itself. Use the razor to cut back excess rubber on both the male and the female ends of the plug. Cut the stator side until it’s flush with the sockets and the regulator “boot” side until it bottoms out completely when plugged in. Come to think of it, why not trim the plug and install a retainer? You can’t be too careful these days, and you’ll get a charge out of it, to boot.

Here’s an easy way to install the jiffy stand spring on a Softail: Remove the top bolt and lock washer that holds the leg stop in place and remove the stop. Pivot the jiffy stand forward (this will allow the spring to be removed from the two mounting holes), hook in the new spring, and reverse the process to reassemble.

Eat before you work. Concentration and patience diminish as the hunger pangs increase, and the potential for injury is increased. Besides, you won’t be able to hear the engine over your stomach growling.

When aligning your rear wheel, measure both sides from the center of your axle to the middle of the swingarm pivot. The marks on the chain/belt adjusters or swingarm are not usually accurate. A piece of welding rod with a short 90-degree bend in one end and a tie wrap around the rod makes for an inexpensive checker. Put the bent end in the end of the axle and slide the tie wrap up the rod until it’s centered over the middle of the swingarm pivot shaft. Check the outer side, and then adjust the axle as needed.

Older Ultras (‘90 and earlier) fry rear brake switches with alarming regularity. That’s because if they don’t already have one, they need a relay kit (PN 77043-91). Once installed (it takes a couple of hours), your rear brake switch will stay alive, and you won’t hear that weird popping through the radio speakers when you use the brake, either.

When riding long distance, make regular rest stops even if you’re not tired. Fatigue is often cumulative, and taking a few minutes to stretch and relax can help keep you alert and refreshed. It also helps to prevent muscle cramps from sitting in one position for long periods of time.

Turn signals that mount to the bottom of the rearview mirrors have a tendency to malfunction on bikes that get washed a lot or live near a large body of water. Why? The ground for the lamp is via that nifty swivel mount and corrosion often forms there, interrupting the electrical flow. If your signals won’t blink, squirt some WD-40 on the mount and wiggle it back and forth until it scrapes the crud from the metal. Ground re-established and flash!

If you want to prevent cracks in the back fender of your ‘94-and-newer Sportster, install an invisible support brace (PN 59671-98) to bridge the rearmost fender strut area. This little devil comes stock on new ‘98 XLs and adds strength to the fender while preventing cracks that occur from vibration peaks at certain rpm.

When installing a new ignition system, make sure the cam’s endplay is correct. On some aftermarket ignitions that replace the stock rotor cup, the new parts could come into contact with the points’ cover backing plate if there’s too much cam endplay.

If your starter acts funny right after a rebuild or any time it has been removed and reinstalled, it might be because it’s binding. It’s all too easy to over-torque the mounting bolts or the jackshaft retaining bolt. Try backing off the fasteners slightly, and then tighten them evenly, and see if the starter miraculously recovers. If not, disconnect the battery, drain the primary, and pull the cover. On the jackshaft retainer bolt, bend the lock tab back, remove the bolt, clean the threads, apply blue Loctite (#242), replace, and torque to 3-5 lb-ft. Now reassemble and get started.

When assembling a group of parts that use a Woodruff key-way, like the pinion shaft and gear, oil pump gears, or transmission mainshaft and clutch hub, here’s a trick way to keep the Woodruff key from slipping out while you put the parts together. Before you insert the Woodruff key into its slot, put a drop of Loctite, blue or red, in the slot. Then set the Woodruff key into the slot and let the Loctite set up for a few minutes. To get a good bond between the Woodruff key and the slot, make sure they are clean first. With the Loctite holding the key in the slot, you should have no problem with the key pushing out of the slot as you put the parts together.

When installing the screws that hold your derby cover in place, don’t use thread-locker on the threads. You might not be able to remove them next time because the small Allen wrench will not exert enough force to break the thread-locker loose and you’ll end up stripping the bolt head.

If your bike’s transmission has a tapered mainshaft that uses a Woodruff key to engage the clutch hub (‘89 and earlier), here’s an assembly trick. After you’ve set the clutch hub onto the mainshaft and the Woodruff key is properly engaged, install the mainshaft nut and run it down finger-tight. Now take a large, deep 11/42-inch drive socket (a 111/44-inch worked well for us), set the socket over the mainshaft nut so that its outer edge contacts the clutch hub, and give the end of the socket a couple of gentle taps with a light mallet. After this, retighten the mainshaft nut finger-tight, and again, using the deep socket and light mallet, give the clutch hub a couple more taps. Repeat this procedure until the mainshaft nut can no longer be finger-tightened after tapping the clutch hub with the socket and light mallet. Finally, torque the mainshaft nut down to the spec in the service manual for your model bike.

Use compatible tires. Mixing different compounds and different tread patterns can produce different handling and braking characteristics.

You own a Harley with a secondary beltdrive, and you want to check its tension. More than one rider has incorrectly checked drivebelt tension and then mistakenly adjusted it. There are several things to remember when checking drivebelt tension on a Harley, one of which applies to all Harleys; the others are more specific to Sportsters and big twins. Always check the drivebelt’s tension with the belt cold; this applies to all beltdrive Harleys. Sportsters are checked with the rear wheel off the ground, and big twins are checked with the rear wheel on the ground and the rider, or a person of the same weight, sitting on the bike. For the exact amount of deflection and where on the belt to check it, refer to the appropriate owner’s or service manual for your model.

Before and after a long trip, check the electrolyte levels in your battery and top them off with distilled water. There have been instances of batteries drying up completely during a long, hard trip where the charging system was putting out maximum amps. Better yet, step up to a new maintenance-free battery.

Read the instructions, and read them completely before you screw something up. It could save you from big headaches later.

Use tools for their designed intention. Wrenches, ratchets, and hands do not make good hammers, nor do screwdrivers make proper chisels, pry bars, or gasket scrapers. Using a damaged tool on a chrome fastener or near a painted part is asking for trouble-one slip and it’s all over but the crying.

Looking for a wheel-bearing seal for one of the older enclosed drivechain dressers? Harley PN 47519-83A is used on all current production but won’t work correctly on the enclosure side. It’s fine for the brake side.Use PN 47519-72 on the chain side.

If the brake light has a tendency to stay lit on your ‘97 model, install a small ball bearing (PN 8856C) between the brake plunger and the spring in the front master cylinder. This boosts spring pressure and allows the lever to return better. It’s especially helpful to dresser riders with cruise control that can’t stand having the cruise disengage when they hit a bump or barely touch the front brake lever.

	A broken mirror doesn’t have to mean bad luck for the next seven years. You can still use it to inspect the underside of your bike or look for dropped nuts and washers.	One of the handiest tools for the toolbox or next to the drill press is this hand-powered countersink/deburring tool made from a countersink that’s been brazed onto an old screwdriver.
If you’re like us and own only broken power tools and have to resort to hand-filing your handmade custom parts, rubbing some ordinary blackboard chalk on the file first will prevent the file from clogging up with the metal filings, especially on aluminum.aluminum.	Some Allen bolts are in the tightest places. You wonder who ever thought of this particular design because you have to disassemble half of the bike to get a standard Allen wrench in such a tight spot. An alternative is to cut a short length of the Allen wrench (the long side), dress the cut end, and use the same size wrench to remove the Allen bolt.	We wrapped our 10mm wrench with some masking tape to prevent the possibility of the wrench shorting out the battery while we were disconnecting the battery cables.
This is an inexpensive automotive master cylinder bleeder kit. It comes with seven different fittings and a couple of lengths of hose.	If the occasion ever presents itself where you find yourself short of hose clamps, a short length of solid wire will do nicely.	Have you ever needed to hold a nut where your fingers wouldn’t fit? An easy way to hold the nut in place is to smear some grease on the end of a screwdriver, stick the nut in the grease, and go for it.
To keep the nuts on your battery terminals from disappearing into the black hole of dropped hardware, cut a section of the overflow tube off and wedge it between the battery nut and case.	By combining the end housing from a Harley generator, a shovelhead head bolt, and a couple of thick washers, you can make the perfect tool for removing the pressure-plate snap-ring on late-model Evo clutches.	One of the toughest nuts to reach on a Harley is at the left rear motor mount. We found a used 91/416-inch wrench at a flea market, heated it up with a torch, and bent it to fit down behind the engine inside the inner primary cover.
ZEP Battery Coat is available in most auto parts stores in spray cans and works great at preventing corrosion on battery terminals, circuit breakers, and starter solenoids. The cost is $4-$5 a can.	Dielectric grease is the greatest invention since electricity itself. Dielectric grease prevents corrosion inside lightbulb sockets, spark plug wires, darn near anyplace where electricity flows.

Harley carburetor jetting should only be performed after completing the fine tuning procedure described under Performance Tuning and your Harley is still running too lean.

A good rule of thumb is to replace the Pilot Jet first and only replace the Main Jet once the engine’s idle and midrange are satisfactorily tuned. The Main Jet is only used at 3/4 to full throttle and has no effect on the idle or midrange mixture.

Main jet replacement should be reserved until after the slow idle jet is replaced and mixture is tuned unless a lean condition is apparent during full throttle. Harley carburetor jetting can be accomplished with minimal mechanical knowledge.

Tools to perform this task include just a simple set of screwdrivers. You will also need an assortment of jets or a Stage 1 kit. Remove the 4 screws securing the bowl to the base of the carburetor and remove the bowl. Using a narrow 1/8″ flat head screwdriver unscrew the Pilot Jet from within the orifice pictured. The jet size is stamped into the top of the jet (i.e. 42). Be careful not to strip the head of the jet.	Pilot Jet location
With a flat head screwdriver unscrew the Main Jet from the brass needle jet holder (aka Emulsion Tube). Note the jet size stamped into the top of the jet (i.e. 165). There is no need to remove the emulsion tube unless required for cleaning. I don’t recommend “Power Tubes” as they change the mixture and ability to tune with stock jets.	Main Jet
Replace the Pilot Jet with one size larger. This of course assumes that you are starting out with the stock jet size. Harley Davidson Pilot Jets for CV Carburetors are normally sold in sizes 40, 42, 45, 48, 50, and higher. A Stage 1 Carb Kit will normally offer you a proper range of jets for your particular model. If your stock jet was a #42 the next size larger will be #44 or #45. Only increase the jet sizing one size at a time to avoid an overly rich idle. An EZ-Just mixture screw will also assist in fine tuning once you have the correct jetting.	Pilot and Main Jets
Only replace the Main Jet with one size larger after properly tuning your slow/idle jet settings. Main Jets are sized incrementally by 5, so if your stock jet was a #175 the next size larger will be #180. you should only increase the jet sizing one size at a time. Avoid installing jets that are too rich as this will create a sluggish feeling at full throttle as well as contribute to plug fouling. Many Twin Cam models (except California) are already appropriately jetted with a main jet that will allow for a good starting point for tuning. As mentioned, proper mixture adjustment is key to proper jetting and should be performed first. Reinstall the bowl making sure to align the accelerator pump shaft and rubber boot. Install the carburetor back onto the bike and perform the tuning procedure as described under Carburetor Tuning.

S&S® Cycle, Inc.
14025 County Highway G Box 215
Viola, Wisconsin 54664
Phone: 608-627-2080 • Fax: 608-627-1488
Technical Service Phone: 608-627-TECH (8324)
Technical Service Email: sstech@sscycle.com
Website: www.sscycle.com

Instruction 51-1053

Installation Instructions for

50-State Legal Air Filter Element 17-0375
INTRODUCTION
S&S air filter 17-0375 has been found exempt from the prohibitions of Section
27156 by the State of California Air Resources Board if installed and maintained
according to these instructions. As a result, this filter can be legally installed as a
stock replacement item on all applicable new and used motorcycles.
Filter element 17-0375 is carbon-impregnated to reduce evaporative
emissions. It must be operated dry, or without oil, and replaced every 2,500
miles. If the filter becomes damaged or contaminated with excessive oil
build-up, it must be replaced to comply with C.A.R.B. and similar standards
and prevent possible engine damage. See Caution below.
NOTE: Any deviation from these instructions or substitution of other parts from
S&S or another manufacturer constitutes an unauthorized modification of this
product and may violate applicable pollution laws. It is the sole and exclusive
responsibility of the user to determine the suitability of this product for his or her
use. The user shall assume all responsibilities, obligations, duties and risks
associated with installation and operation.
If this filter element becomes damaged or torn it may release carbon
particles into the engine resulting in severe engine damage.

INSTALLATION

1. Remove air cleaner cover according to procedure in service manual.
2. Remove old element and discard.
3. Thoroughly clean air cleaner backing plate with clean cloth and solvent and
inspect for flaws, cracks, and other damage.
4. Install S&S filter element 17-0375 with flat side against backing plate.
NOTES:
l Do not oil 17-0375 filter element. Other S&S filters may be oiled with correct
filter element oil according to instructions.
l Beveled side of filter must face out to provide secure seal against air
cleaner cover.
5. Reinstall air cleaner cover according to procedure in service manual.
Gasoline is extremely flammable, explosive under certain conditions and
the fumes toxic when inhaled. Do not smoke around gasoline. Perform this
installation in a well-ventilated area away from sparks or open flames.

For Harley owners looking to make their ride faster and meaner, an aftermarket exhaust system is a great choice. Vance & Hines exhaust systems have long been setting the standard for the industry.

With so many options, choosing an aftermarket exhaust system can be very confusing. This article will help you understand your options to make your choice easier.

Virtually all Vance Hines exhaust systems utilize some variation of their “blue proof” technology. So, you never have to worry about losing the look of the original chrome finish. Most systems are also made in the U.S.A. with the company’s high-quality manufacturing standards. With Vance and Hines, you get a quality product. Sometimes installation is a bit challenging, but I have yet to come across a kit that couldn’t be installed with a little work.

Big Shots Power Chamber

Vance & Hines exclusive “Power Chamber” to boost horsepower and torque. Pipes are straight mid-length. If you’re after performance, consider these.

Big Shot Duals

Ideal for Touring models. Long 2 1/8″ pipes with flat cut ends for a classic dresser look.

Vance Hines Big Shot Dual

Long shots

Extra long 2 1/4″ straight pipes with slash cut ends. This Vance Hines exhaust system is the perfect compliment for the classic cruiser look.

Stepped Drag Pipe

These pipes are all about horsepower. Developed from Vance & Hines winning drag racing experience. 2 1/2″ header into a massive 3″ muffler. Baffles are removable. These are the standard in performance cruiser pipes.

Big Radius

A big fat 2 1/2″ radius flowing mid-length pipe. Pipe ends are scalloped for a unique custom look.

Sideshots Power Chamber

Features the Vance Hines exhaust “Power Chamber” technology for the performance minded. These create a unique custom look with mid-length diagonal 2 1/2″ pipe.

Straightshots

These babies emit a mean deep hot-rod sound with a mid-length straight pipe look. Baffles are removable for those days when you really want to let it rip. Pipe diameter is 2 1/2″. Straightshots are also available in a dual configuration.

Shortshots

A shorter version of the Straight shots. There a little bit smaller at 1 3/4″, but sound just as mean and give you a more hot-rod look. Available in parallel and staggered configurations.

There you have it. Which one is right for you? Find the best deals on Vance Hines Exhaust systems and see specific model applications. Rest assured, whichever system you choose, you won’t regret it. These are all top quality exhaust systems.

Lyle Dove is an avid motorcyclist who enjoys all aspects of the sport. When he’s not out riding, he spends his time writing articles on the sport he loves.

A Custom motorcycle kit is a great way to get started as a custom bike builder.

There’s something very appealing about building your own bike. Not only do you end up with a cool bike that your friends will be envious of, but you also get a great sense of pride (and bragging rights) because you built it yourself. Sounds good, but building your first bike is a huge undertaking..

Chopper Kits

You’ll have to do a lot of planning to come up with

• a functional design
• a listing of parts needed
• an affordable source for your parts
• a budget to try and stick to

And that’s just the beginning. Many beginning builders find that their designs will left something out, their parts weren’t in when they needed them and they spent more than they planned. These are the reasons that many first builds never get completed.

Most of these issues can be avoided by starting out with a custom motorcycle kit. They allow you to overcome many of the challenges that first time builders face and still give you the satisfaction of building it yourself.

Kits vary in their completeness. Some kits, like the biker’s choice custom motorcycle kit, comes complete with everything you need. This way, you won’t end up having to buy any parts individually. There’ll be no unexpected delays or costs.

With a custom motorcycle kit, you typically save several thousands of dollars over a bike built by purchasing parts individually. Often, you can sell your kit built bike for more than you paid. Allowing you to move on to your next build.

Perhaps the biggest benefit of a custom motorcycle kit is that everything is already planned out for you. You know all the parts will fit together. You know the frame geometry will make the bike rideable. You know exactly how much the bike will cost from the very beginning. Knowing you have a solid plan gives you peace of mind and allows you to focus on having fun building the bike of your dreams.

A custom motorcycle kit may not give you the flexibility of buying parts individually from scratch. What it does give you is a solid package that works. It’s a great introduction to custom motorcycle building.

Lyle Dove is an avid motorcyclist who enjoys all aspects of the sport including motocross and road racing. When he’s not out riding, he spends his time writing articles on the sport he loves.

This is an overlook of some common questions regarding K & N Air filters for your Motorcycle.

K & N Motorcycle Intake

1.How will a K&N filter affect my vehicle’s fuel economy?

There is a relationship between air filter restriction and mileage. The theory behind this is simple, the harder an engine has to work to suck air through the intake tubes and air filter, the more gas gets wasted in the process. Replacing a dirty or clogged air filter is one of many recommendations the U.S. Department of Transportation suggests for improving fuel economy (see http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/FEG2007.pdf).  Many K&N users report an increase in their fuel economy after beginning to use our air filters, as noted on our testimonial page. However, these experiences do not mean you will also experience a change in your mileage. We certainly understand why it is theoretically possible for a consumer to experience a mileage increase after installing a K&N air filter or intake system, however, we do not go so far as to make a general claim that our air filters and intake systems will provide an increase in mileage.

It is virtually impossible to make sweeping and general claims about mileage. Even the EPA fuel rating numbers for new cars are often not representative of the mileage you actually experience. There are many variables that affect mileage such as: tire inflation, the type of fuel, weather, elevation, the speed at which you drive, the gear in which you drive, the speed with which you accelerate, engine maintenance, excessive idling, cruise control, the grade of motor oil you use, and of course, the condition of your air filter.  In short, mileage is complicated.

K&N filters are less restrictive than disposable paper or synthetic air filters and K&N Intake Systems are less restrictive than the factory installed air path. So K&N filter technology could be an important tool, when combined with other elements, to help keep mileage as high as possible.

Oh yeah, there’s one more limitation imposed by science. If you take advantage of added power by driving more aggressively, you will reduce mileage. You cannot have your cake and eat it too.
2. What increase in horsepower should I expect from a K&N replacement filter?

K&N direct replacement filters which install into your vehicle’s factory air box can provide an increase of between 1 and 4 horsepower.  Results will vary depending on your vehicle, driving habits, load on the engine (towing for example), existing air system restriction, and other factors.
3. What increase in horsepower should I expect from a K&N air intake system?

K&N makes several different types and configurations of performance air intake systems.  Depending on the year, make, and model of your vehicle, only one style of intake system may be available for that vehicle.  All of our intake systems are dyno-tested and guaranteed to increase your vehicle’s horsepower.  Instead of making a general claim, we publish actual intake system horsepower increases for many part numbers and vehicles. To see the power gains of specific air intakes for specific vehicles, enter the part number in our part search or look up a specific vehicle in our application search.
4. How often do I need to clean my K&N air filter?

If you have not experienced a decrease in mileage or engine performance, chances are your filter is fine and does not yet need cleaning.  To be more specific, the filter does not require cleaning if you can still see the wire screen on the entire air filter regardless of how dirty it may appear. When the screen is no longer visible some place on the filter, it is time to clean it. When used in normal paved road, street or highway conditions, our replacement air filters that fit in the factory air box should require cleaning every 50,000 miles and our large conical filters on an intake system should require cleaning every 100,000 miles. When used in dusty or off-road environments, our filters will require cleaning more often. We recommend that you visually inspect your filter once every 25,000 miles to determine if the screen is still visible.

5. Can a K&N filter give my engine too much air flow?

No. An engine can only draw in a certain volume of air depending on the engine’s size (measured by such things as bore, stroke and number of cylinders).  Vehicles are designed to accommodate large changes in air pressure so they can operate at sea level or at an altitude of 14,000 feet.  Engine computers adjust the amount of fuel required as a result of changes in air pressure (density).  Air filter restriction when the filter is new and especially as the filter loads with dust will result in lower air pressure and availability similar to being at a high elevation.  High-flow air filters that were invented by K&N were designed to reduce the work necessary to pull air through the filter and to increase air pressure.  Increased air pressure is one of the key elements in producing more power.
6. Will using a K&N direct replacement filter void my factory warranty?

It is against federal law in the United States for a manufacturer to require the use of a specific brand of air or oil filter unless it provides a replacement air or oil filter, free of charge, under the terms of the vehicle warranty. For a more thorough discussion of this law known as the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act, see our Vehicle Warranty Section of our Air Filter Facts page, and our Letter Regarding Vehicle Warranty and K&N Replacement Filters.

7. More airflow means you are letting more dirt through, right?

No.  Filtration testing measures the percentage of dust retained before the filter reaches a terminal test pressure, often 10″ of restriction above initial restriction. We use airflow as a simplified term to explain a more complicated physical process. The more precise description is restriction: K&N air filters create less restriction which helps an engine run better. An engine will only use the air it needs and our air filters do not result in an engine using more air than necessary. Rather, they result in the engine experiencing less restriction. The terms airflow and restriction are inversely related. Our air filters provide either less restriction at a fixed airflow rate; or more airflow as a fixed level of restriction. In neither case is more air being used than necessary.